Sifnos is a small island in the Western Cyclades. It is relatively unspoiled because it has no airport and you arrive by fast boat from Piraeus or Milos. There is no road along the beach so the bus turns round and heads up the hill and you trudge along the beach to your chosen taverna. There are six tavernas, serving traditional Greek food, and many of them have simple studio rooms above. Vathi is a sleepy cluster of houses in a single row and the hills host goats, donkeys and bees.