The Cote St Jacques in the Burgundian town of Joigny is one of those legendary roadside hotel/restaurants where travellers used to rest for a night on their way to the Riviera. Nowadays, the Lorain's establishment has become a bit of a forgotten jewel. The reasons for this are hard to understand, as the cooking here is very much worthy of the three Michelin stars Jean-Michel Lorain holds.
Gordon Ramsay is not your usual three-star chef. He spends a lot of time on television, opens restaurants from New York to Dubai, albeit with varying degrees of success, and must be the most foul-mouthed chef ever, at least when a TV camera is around. Whilst you might find the above more or less interesting, as is so often, the proof is in the pudding, and the pudding is by far the best at 68 Royal Hospital Road in Chelsea.
Trained by Pierre Gagnaire and Alain Ducasse among others, Erwan Louaisil certainly has an admirable CV for a chef of his age. Having been at the Ferme St Siméon for a good year now, he is producing a cuisine that seems to be influenced more from Ducasse than Gagnaire: It is straightforward, relatively simple and based on high quality produce.
For its chef, Joachim Wissler, is a man who doesn't cook food like other chefs do. He is someone who has an excellent commanding of classical French technique and at the same time, slowly developed a style that has very little to do with that of any other restaurant in Europe. To describe this style, a few characteristics come to mind. First of all, his cooking is pure. Dishes such as a goose liver with chicken bouillon and courgettes for instance do not feature a lot of elements.
Chef Victor Etxebarri - He has created a style of cooking that is not only truly original and modern, but remains so much focused on the product that you will not find two people doing the same thing in the world.